First weeks...

After a flight cancellation and a 3 hour delay, the twelve of us AYADs arrived at Apia Airport in Samoa… a sleep-deprived day and half late.

Orientation
We were soon whisked off to a town centre hotel and then out to the tropical paradise of Lalomanu; supposedly one of the best ways to be eased into the Samoan way-of-life. Lalomanu is a popular beachside retreat boasting pristine white beaches, overhanging palm trees, some of the best snorkelling on the island and traditional Samoan fales (huts with no walls) lining the shore. If you’re imagining Pacific Island tourist brochures right now, you’re on the right track.

We met some of the AYADs from the previous intake between snorkeling, throwing balls and frisbees, eating food, playing beach cricket, chilling out and chatting. We were treated to some energetic Samoan dancing on the Saturday evening. I could hardly believe how they managed to keep such natural smiles on their faces while exerting so much energy. I couldn’t help but smile myself. ;)

Week One: House + Easter
Unlike the Samoan dancers, our first week was very chilled out, but this is Fa’a Samoa – the Samoan way. The greatest achievement is that I’ve found a place to stay… It’s a two storey, wood-paneled house on the main road to the east of Apia, opposite a sports complex and only 25 minutes walk to the town centre. I’m sharing with two ladies and another guy, all Australian volunteers. They’re great fun to live with and they love to cook! Since Samoa is warm and humid, the house has open slatted windows on all sides, covered with the all-important fly screens. It’s great for encouraging the cool breeze, but terrible for sound-proofing. The backyard is shared with two other households (Samoan properties don’t have many fences, though the Australian High Commission is a notable exception!), and we are treated to the at-times comedic antics of a host of farmyard animals. This is great fun during the day, especially when the dogs start chasing the pigs around the house. At nightfall though, the ‘zombie dog’ packs take over (bring a rock if walking at night!). By 5:00am, it’s the roosters that decide to announce themselves. Fortunately the subwoofer-enhanced buses don’t start until 6:00am, though some of the utes are just as loud. Let’s just say that it’s tough to get an uninterrupted night’s sleep.

The first week climaxed at Easter, which is a pretty big deal in Samoa. I attended Apia Protestant Church; the closest English-speaking Protestant Church to my house. On Good Friday morning, I read all the gospel accounts of Jesus’ final days, and was struck by the blatant injustice of his trial before the Jewish leaders. I walked into church and heard beautiful Samoan voices singing of Jesus’ greatness in the song “Above All”: the contrast was particularly impacting. Since attending this church over the last few weeks, I have regularly been inspired by their music and drama, as well as the fire-in-the-belly preaching of the minister.

Week Two: Language Classes
Our second week was defined by language classes. The highlight was attending a traditional kava ceremony at the National University of Samoa, where honoured guests (in this case, from Otago University) were welcomed with words of great Samoan oratory. One of our language teachers was the leading speaker, and she relayed to us palagis (foreigners) how she, with good humour, had to silence the responding speaker due to a technicality in her Samoan chiefly status. I’m learning that hierarchy is a visible and important part of the Samoan social structure.

To summarise other notable tidbits of my experience so far, us volunteers have learnt how to prepare coconut cream, to cook fresh seafood in an umu (slow-cooking underground oven) and to slide down waterfalls on our hands and feet. To burn off the excess of sugary, fatty foods, I’ve been either running, paddling, playing touch or ultimate frisbee every day other than Sundays, which is a day for church and Sa (prayerful rest).

Week Three: Work
I’ve just finished my first week at work at the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment (MNRE). In my next blogpost, I’ll reflect with more detail on this… suffice to say, my skills will be well suited to this role.


First Impressions
Defining first impressions of Samoa? Family, church, rugby, smiles, party buses, coconuts, ‘zombie dogs’, palm trees, pigs, roosters, heavy rain, voluminous clouds, rainforest, steep mountains, crowded ute trays, iafataga (skirt)-wearing bicycle-riding police, “It’s too late to apologise”, afternoon naps, super warm seawater, thongs, right-hand drive debate, sun, taxis, singing, Vailima (locally-brewed) beer, foreign aid, malo (hi)!