Earthquake and Tsunami
For those wanting to know about the earthquake and tsunami in Samoa, we're all fine, but the situation in Samoa is pretty serious. A magnitude 8.3 earthquake occurred at about 7am this morning, approx 200km from Samoa, triggering a tsunami that affected mainly the southern side of the islands. We were just waking up at the time and it was quite vigorous and lasted a long time (about 1-1.5 minutes). Apparently there is massive amounts of damage to the south of Upolu (the main island) but there doesn't seem to be as much where we are in the capital Apia (in the north). There was approximately 15 minutes between the earthquake and when the tsunami hit. From the reports from eyewitnesses, it seems like the wave was pretty large (~2-3m). There was also another tsunami warning issued later in the day, but it looks as though that was a false alarm.
We've been at home most of the day and just listening to reports on the radio, but unfortunately the local radio stations are all in Samoan language only! Heather has been heavily involved in the response, especially with Australian citizens here. It's already been a long day for her and it looks like it could be a long night as well, with supplies and personnel being flown in from Australia arriving this evening.
We'd appreciate your prayers in regards to the people who have lost loved ones, for the recovery effort (both immediate and long-term) and also more specifically for Heather in her role.
Thailand & Laos Honeymoon: 9th August – 30th August 2009
After our wedding day (see previous blog entry), Heather and I spent three weeks in Thailand and Laos for our honeymoon, hoping for a healthy mix of relaxation and adventure. To start with, we flew to Phuket and stayed for 5 days at a private beach resort away from
the main tourist mayhem. We had our own private outdoor jacuzzi, delicious room service meals, shared gym, pool, lovely views over the water, and were treated to amazing complementary buffet breakfasts every day. We’d originally planned to spend the full 5 days chillaxing about in the resort, but once we discovered the scooter hire place across the road, the lure of adventure became too strong.
We soon ended up at chaotic Patong Beach, replete with its sea of banana lounges and myriad of sellers of every description. Heather had her hair braided very swiftly and cheaply there, but we were soon exploring elsewhere. While it’s an experience we’re glad to have tried once, we were happy not to repeat it… The following evening we stumbled upon another intriguing once-only experience: ‘Fantasea’. This cheesy extravaganza boasted light shows, music, dancing, si
nging, animal shows, fireworks, etc, etc, etc. The show itself was preceded by a buffet meal in its 4000-seat food hall… Every associated attraction was over-the-top and tacky, but mostly quite amusing and entertaining. It was sad to see two amazingly powerful (and rare) white tigers being kept in a lifeless and tiny enclosure. The performing elephants were impressive; hopefully they were treated a little better than some of the other animals we saw there.
We also booked a boat and sea kayaking tour to
the limestone islands east of Phuket. Even though this was meant to be the quiet season, it still felt as though we were in a factory-line procession of tour groups. We were ushered here and there, waiting in line, observing boat after boat being led through the same caves and past the same cliffs. The scenery was pretty amazing, though the experience was tempered by the ‘lemming effect’.
After Phuket, we made our way north towards Chiang Mai via Bangkok by bus and sleeper train. We spent a few hours exploring Bangkok on foot. Then… assured of an amazing tuk-tuk deal, we agreed to jump in and explore the major attractions for 10 baht (AUD$0.40) each. While it
started well, we soon began to realise that we were being directed towards suit makers and jewellery stores rather than tourist attractions. Our tuk-tuk driver ‘Nong’ became irritated at our lack of interest in these shopper’s delights. It turns out that they’d be given petrol vouchers if we spent enough time inside one of these accredited stores. However, we weren’t playing along! So, by the time we reached the next Buddhist temple, he dropped us off, picked up some other passengers and we never saw him again… We felt like we’d been ripped off! When we thought about it for a moment though, it actually worked out well for us – we explored more of Bangkok than we could ever have managed on foot… for free.
After our second sleeper train, we arrived in Chiang Mai to a pristine guesthouse and ultra-friendly owner and his wife… The highlights here were scootering, night marketing and elephant riding. We scootered up the nearby mountains to an elaborate Buddhist temple and the Royal residence and gardens, but got a flat tyre on the way up! One of the guys want
ed to charge us an extravagant amount to call for help, but we didn’t have enough cash on us. Just when we thought we were really stuck, a much more helpful man called the guesthouse owner for us and they arranged a replacement bike. We were on our way again in an hour.
That night, we explored row after row of market stalls selling a massive range of crafts, clothes and food. It was quite a draining process by the end of it, but we managed to return with our arms full and only AUD$35 lighter in the pocket.
The following day, we joined some local mahouts (elephant trainers) for some bareback elephant riding. We were trained in the six main commands, fed the elephants to develop rapport with them, and then began our practical training. Heather and I were then assigned to our elephant for our trail riding: a slow plodder! We took turns at being the driver (sitting on the neck behind the ears) or the passenger (sitting on the back). These incredibly powerful animals were quite tricky to get moving, and while it wasn’t so much an exhilarating experience, they certainly commanded respect. The highlight for us was washing the elephants, who relished the chance to cool down at the end of their walk.
Our next adventure was the Gibbon Experience, located in the Bokeo Nature Reserve in the rainforests of north-eastern Laos. From the Laotian border, it was a 1.5hour drive, followed by a short boat trip, 1-hour walk, half-hour off-road adventure and another 40-minute walk to reach the zip-line network. We were given our harnesses, a few instructions and some directions before launching ourselves onto these canopy lifelines. It was immensely freeing to be flying along these steel wires way above pristine forest and deep ravines. W
e were given a lot of latitude to test out these different routes for ourselves – unlike the highly safety-conscious Western tourist operators. We stayed two nights in different treehouses, only accessible by zip-line. They were surprisingly luxurious, with mattresses, mosquito nets, showers, sinks and squat toilets (holes)! Food was provided by the local guides, who also took us on early morning walks to search for gibbons. The mornings began in beautiful cool mist. The stillness was disturbed on our first morning walk by the highly energetic and varied
gibbon calls. We followed the sound through the dense forest, and fortunately Heather managed to get a brief glimpse of a quickly retreating gibbon. Surprisingly enough, there were very few other wildlife sightings on the trip, besides a bright green snake, a bounding lorus, a wide variety of butterflies and various oversized insects. The experience itself was wonderful, and for the nine of us in our group, it’ll be memorable for its beauty, excitement and speedy trekking.
Rather than opting for either the excruciatingly long slow boat trip down the Mekong River or
the prohibitively dangerous fast boat, we flew by plane to the more densely populated parts of Laos. The five days we spent in the French-influenced town of Luang Prabang were some of the most relaxed and pleasant of our trip. We stayed in beautifully designed wooden bungalows beside the river and treated ourselves to French wine, cheese, baguettes and rambutans. How luxurious… We also embarked on some adventures, including m
ountain-biking to the milky waters of the Tad Sae Waterfalls, kayaking down the Mekong River to Pak Ou Buddhist caves, and climbing up to the top of Phousi hill in the centre of town. We had some amazing meals and also enjoyed the night markets, which were much smaller than Chiang Mai but probably better quality on average. This was definitely a place worth spending some time in.
On the way down towards Thailand, we decided to stop at the small tourist town of Vang Vieng, on the southern end of the
mountainous northern region. Set in a beautiful riverside location and fronting onto striking limestone cliffs, this a popular stopping-off point for tourists between Luang Prabang and the capital, Vientiane. A favourite past-time for tourists is floating down the river on inflatable tubes, stopping off at various riverside bars for drinks, revelry and water swings. We opted instead for a kayaking trip that also included tubing through a partially water-filled cave. It turned out to be such a great option, given that we were also able to experience the riverside bars and water swings without being swamped by the teaming tourist hordes.
Our honeymoon finished with a long trip down to Phuket Airport, broken only by a short rendezvous in Bangkok again for a Thai cooking course. Overall, it was a wonderful experience and we were impressed with how well tourists are catered for: efficient transport, delicious meals, varied accommodation, and great value for money. We particularly enjoyed the mountainous northern regions of Thailand and Laos.
Given the excitement of the wedding, honeymoon and Heather’s sister’s wedding in Canberra soon after, it’s been tough to readjust to life back in Samoa. However, now that we’ve set up the house and are settled back at work, we’re starting to get back into more usual routines. Hopefully we’ll set-up some healthy patterns as Heather, Isabel and I begin life as a little family.
Wedding Day
Wedding Ceremony of
Heather Dixon & Michael Wrathall
1:30pm, Saturday 8 August 2009
St Paul’s Anglican Church, Seaforth
What a day of celebration! Woo yeah… :)
While the preparation had not always been smooth, the final product was very special. Here is a brief summary of the day’s events.
The ceremony itself was held in the church that our family has grown up in – a fitting place since it has shaped me so much. Although having been overseas for much of the last 3.5 years, it was touching for me to observe so many familiar faces in the congregation: from friends I’d grown up with to the elderlies who’d held me as a baby…
Heather looked absolutely stunning (as you can see) and though I was struggling to hold myself together soon before she arrived, a few words & prayers from the best man later, and I was able to enjoy her exceedingly graceful entrance. The opening hymn, a fast-paced version of ‘To God be the Glory’ really set the tone. Heather was dancing in the front pew and I half-stifled a ‘woooh!’ at the end. I can see why they have rousing music to start off big sporting contests: I almost felt ready to launch myself into a rugby match…
Our church minister Colin reflected on the Bible readings (Psalm 127 and Romans 12:9-18), comparing the qualities in the Romans passage with their opposites. It’s summarised in the following link... It’s a tough list of qualities to act upon wholeheartedly, but a great challenge worth committing a lifetime to…
My friend Snowy and Heather’s friend Sarah prayed for us. If we’re to embark on a
wholehearted relationship ‘til death do us part’, I think it’s so important to have our Maker involved and to follow his design instructions for us. It’s also reassuring to know that we’re not alone in this journey, with both God’s presence amongst us and the support of family and friends.
I also needed to say a quick prayer myself to still my nerves for the next part of the service: my special song for Heather. Of all the things I was most nervous about in the lead-up to the wedding, this topped the list. However, I also knew that this could be the opportunity to do something memorable and personal. Having rehearsed this the night before with my groomsmen, I was feeling a little more confident than earlier in the week. Once the song began, my nerves settled and it ended up exceeding my expectations. Though Heather didn’t raise a tear, I could tell she was moved. It was also great that the humour was appreciated and that many
in the congregation were able to make out the (slightly convoluted) words. You can watch the song on youtube at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCaixo4gtgA, or read the words typed out in full below:
Precious Gem: Heather’s Song
It’s not that you’re especially kind
Though servant hearts like yours are hard to find
And though your motherly credentials are assured
For now this evidence can be ignored
And though you've an enviable pedigree
And this fruit doesn’t fall far from the tree
You may be doing iron mans til you’re 63
Or scrambling up cliffs that intimidate me
And though your outward beauty is slow to fade
You topped the class in sixth grade
You may exceed a photo’s expectation
Or smash a harried Bible examination
What matters is that I love you
and you love me (x2)
You’re my precious gem
A gift sent from heaven (x2)
You may be nimble like a mountain goat
Or a novelist when it comes to special post-it notes
And though you’re a typing tyro on email
If that’s all you were our marriage would be doomed to fail
You may bake a mean banana bread, though you wouldn’t boast
We’d all be content with some peanut butter on toast
Lucky for me you’re a proficient trunt completer
But even if you weren’t I’d still have got down on one knee for you
What matters is that I love you
and you love me (x2)
What matters is that He loves you
and He loves me
You’re my precious gem
A gift sent from heaven (x4)
[Adlib] + [whistles] + [final chorus x2]
Up until this point, we still weren’t technically married. We’d planned to build the expectation towards the main event and finish with a climax. We were also hoping to strike a balance between being serious and being fun – I think we found something that worked well for us. The vows were an amalgamation of the two Anglican Church order of marriage services. We take seriously the promises we made in public that day. It’s important to us that they’re public because we’re accountable now! Hopefully we’ll keep striving to live up to those promises…
We exited the church to ‘O Happy Day’ and were treated to a light afternoon tea in the hall. Unfortunately a cold change had arrived the previous evening (after two weeks of mil
d, still and clear weather) so it was too windblown to be held in the garden outside. We’d decorated the hall in our dark blue/silver theme and arranged a saxophone quartet to provide music. Unbeknown to most, they’d done an arrangement of ‘All My Life’ by K-Ci & JoJo, which was the song I sang on karaoke when I first met Heather. The words to the song were quite prophetic: “All my life I prayed for someone like you, and I thank God that I finally found you…”
We hardly had any time to enjoy the afternoon tea, squeezed between signing the registry and photo sessions. After all, we had to ready ourselves to clamber up a tree in full wedding regalia for
an obligatory ‘mountain goat’ photo… Following photos and a short break at home to warm up (!), we joined the reception at Clonny’s restaurant (literally down the hill from home) after sunset. With 90 of us squeezed into a relatively small space, heating was hardly required, and neither was music (which we’d forgotten: I don’t think anyone really even noticed)! My uni mate Mick did a great job as MC and once speeches began, we were mostly on-schedule. Almost 1.5 hours of speeches later… and we’d run out of time. No bridal waltz, no dancing, no music…! I wouldn’t have changed it though: the speeches were wonderful.
Terry (Heather’s dad) offered a potted history of Heather’s life, while Jill (my mum) spontaneously shared her joy at the answered prayers of Heather’s friend Christine. Kristie (Heather’s friend and bridesmaid) spoke poignantly of their shared experiences, while Will (my brother and best man) humorously and eloquently recounted brotherly memories as the underdog. My cheeks were sore and eyes moist from extreme laughter and tears. I’m
sure there were many in that room with similar physical infirmities. Heather and I had just to express our excitement and gratitude to those involved in shaping us and sharing this special day.
It certainly felt like the day rushed past, as many had warned us. So many people; so little quality time. In the lead-up, we had questioned whether all the energy required for the preparation of a large wedding would really be worth it. In retrospect, we were agreed that it was worthwhile. Preparation perspective was still important though: the small details that didn’t quite go to plan were insignificant compared to the overwhelming sense of celebration.
It’s been a great start to married life. I suspect that the majority of our lives together will not be quite as exciting. Hopefully this short-term happiness will be accompanied by another, deeper joy that can only come in the context of a lifelong, committed relationship. It might not be such a blog-able event, but is perhaps more important. I’m looking forward to this next challenge of developing a strong marriage and family. Woo yeah…
Wedding Bells
My volunteer experience over the last 11 months in Samoa has been extremely enjoyable and fulsome, but nothing could compare to the events of Saturday, 7th February 2009...
Having been sick for the previous 2 weeks, Heather was looking forward to this day; finally able to break loose from the confines of the house for something adventurous. Since her damaged car had been mostly fixed (that’s another story) and Isabel was enjoying some sliding rock action with some of our other volunteer friends, the stage was set for something big.
We’d agreed on a wide-ranging Treasure Hunt, or Trunt as the Dixon’s like to call it, to test both her physical and mental capacities. I’d spent a good portion of the previous week designing the activity, which involved a series of ten clues and associated physical challenges that would be revealed upon the successful completion of the task set for each location. The Trunt began at 2:00pm in the afternoon and continued for six hours into the evening, ranging throughout the southern part of the island of Upolu. It focussed on the locations that had been especially memorable or significant for us over the last 6 months.
Some of the physical challenges involved somersaults into the water, handstands, being buried in sand, patting a dog (no mean feat here!), rock skimming and cartwheeling into the water. By the time we reached the final clue/challenge, the sun had well and truly set, and it was time for some dinner.
Following our carbohydrate-filled pizza/pasta, we entered stage 2 of the Trunt, which involved locations in and around the house and included clues from obscure Bible passages. Being the intelligent lass that she is, she moved quickly through this stage, only momentarily pausing at the washing basket clue which she comedically passed over numerous times. At the final clue, Heather received a poem that had been carefully crafted by yours truly. The end of the 17th and final verse instructed her:
Venture through the sliding door
Where something sensational awaits you…
She had been craving chocolate all day and was hoping/expecting that I would surprise her with a large chocolate feast. When she ventured outside through the sliding door, she was instead greeted with flowers arranged to spell “WARRY ME”… or that’s what she thought. It wasn’t until I got down on one knee that Heather realised the W was actually an M!
It was then that I popped the question. Before deciding, she had to check if I was sure (and also that I wasn’t playing a very insensitive joke on her). When she realised I was seriously certain, she responded with a polite “Yes, please”.
I had made a specially decorated origami box to house the ring,
which was in fact a shell that had previously been stuck on her finger during one of our beach adventures. Well… it was meant to be that one but I chose the wrong shell! It actually looks nicer though and I think she got the right idea... :-)
Heather was completely surprised by the whole thing. She hadn’t expected a proposal until after we’d returned from Australia. Suffice to say, she is ecstatically happy. We haven’t made any concrete plans yet, though the wedding will be in Australia later
this year. Our three-week trip to Canberra and Sydney will be a great opportunity to meet our prospective in-laws and Aussie friends and to pick up a proper engagement ring! Hopefully by then the reality of our engaged status will have begun to sink in.
Birthdays and Other End-of-Year Celebrations
Late in November, I celebrated my 29th birthday alongside my German and Fr
ench mates Christof and Arnauld. Held at Christof’s Colonial mansion, a beautiful white colonial-style house up the hill from Apia, we hosted a diverse mix of Antipodeans, Europeans, and Samoans. We managed to source a karaoke machine and coupled with a ‘karaoke stars’ dress-up theme, we saw some stirring performances. Most noticeable were Christof and Arnauld’s shameless cross-dressing, our Bee Gees version of “Stayin’ Alive” and an a capella version of “Wannabe” by the Spice Girls.
Consistent with the general news that leaks out from the Samoan Australian volunteer
community, December has seen a surge in social activities. Adding to the usual social events, there are the many and varied work Christmas parties. These events are usually better prepared than every other work-related function. The Samoans seem to take particular pride in ensuring a super-indulgent feast for these occasions. I recently attended the meticulously scripted Australian High Commission Christmas Party, and Heather and I managed to win the prizes for the Best Karaoke Duo and the Best Dancing Couple. She can definitely take most of the credit for the dancing award…
For Christmas, many of us headed to one of our favourite beaches, Vavau, on the south of the island. We had an informal Church Service there on Christmas morning, which feature a
Samoanised Nativity Skit. In between Christmas and the New Year, a group of 16 travelled around the island of Savaii over 3-4 days, half of us by bike. It’s something I did earlier in the year, but was such a highlight that we tried it again. This time though, we cycled the other way around the island. Memorable moments included an amazingly beautiful secluded black-sand beach, being treated to a Samoan feast of coconut crabs and relaxing in our favourite deep freshwater pool and waterfall.
For New Years Eve, we camped for free under a make-shift marquee at one of the nicest resorts in Samoa. It was a comparatively relaxed event, with plenty of chillout time in the hammocks and the beachside saltwater pool.
As the end of the year draws near, my thoughts have turned to future plans. So, I have now decided to stay in Samoa a little longer, working in the same position as I’m currently in. There isn’t yet con
crete confirmation, but it’s likely I’ll be working as a VIDA volunteer for at least another year. The water industry here is moving in the right direction and I feel able to assist in that process. The work is satisfying and my colleagues are mostly young and keen. The lifestyle here is wonderful and the work-life balance is very manageable. My relationship with Heather is growing brilliantly, and I look forward to the masses of quality-time that this environment allows.
On a slightly more sombre note, quite a number of volunteers have recently left or will soon be leaving. I suppose this is the nature of volunteering. Many foreigners only stay for short-term assignments. I’ll have to get used to the process of forming new relationships and farewelling other friends. My intake have been a tremendous group of people with enthusiasm, a wide array of talents and high ideals. It’ll be sad to see many of them go in the coming months…
A Couple of Twists and Turns
The last two months have taken a couple of twists and turns, for the better and for the worse…but mostly towards the better. Firstly, this period of time has been dominated by illnesses and injuries:
- I was hospitalised for a viral infection that hit me very hard for 24 hours and then decided suddenly that it’d had enough excitement for one person (my compassionate housemates found my curled-up fingers to be quite amusing);
- I gashed my foot while swimming in a crater lake. Four weeks later and this is still in the process of healing;
- A dry cough has been a companion of mine for three months now, and not even two courses of antibiotics and regular lime and garlic drinks can shake it;
- Stomach knots, lack of appetite and regular toilet visits have interspersed the latest week, which given my previous incidents, has been a relatively minor inconvenience.
Nevertheless, my spirits are still high, and I look forward to soon developing a resistance to all forms of tropical disease and pestilence.
The second turn has come from an unexpected source, in the form of an Australian diplomat. No, I haven’t been requested to leave the country or invited to be ASIO’s Samoan informant (though naturally I couldn’t tell you even if I was), but I could well be detained in Samoa slightly longer than originally planned. Her name is Heather and she’s been posted to Samoa with AusAid for 2-3 years. For the last two months, we’ve been engaged in more personal diplomatic relations, though it’s yet to be confirmed whether this is linked in any way to my sickness.
Her dengue fever and tonsillitis are considered unrelated. I can reveal that the current status is considered to be very positive and the accompanying photo is attached. In order to preserve Australia’s close ties with Samoa however, further comment is withheld at this present time.
One other happening worth mentioning is the trip of my good friend Tim Harris. We spent almost two weeks exploring four of the Samoan islands; relaxing, snorkelling, chatting to both tourists and locals, hanging out with the Australian volunteer community and (as is our custom) tasting the iced chocolate. Some of the highlights included playing touch footy and cricket on the
beach with a couple of local kids, an incredibly welcoming meal from a family in Savaii, hermit crabs on Namua Island, interesting chats with tourists on our first few days and a walk/swim at an upland crater lake. It was also a wonderful opportunity to relax and reflect on the last 6 months or so with a close mate. Great memories!
The Simple Life as a Volunteer
Volunteering in a ‘developing’ country is meant to be hard, isn’t it? …Living in basic conditions, overwhelmed by needy people, cultural isolation and chaotic schedules, jumping from one disaster to the next. Five months down the track and this hasn’t defined my experience.
Firstly, Samoa could hardly be classed as ‘developing’. There are very few people who struggle for food and have nowhere to sleep. Fruit and vegetables grow almost anywhere and more than 80% of the land is customary-owned (family inheritance). The informal social security networks practiced for decades are very effective. Family networks only rarely allow one of their own to be outcast. I’ve witnessed much more obvious signs of poverty in Sydney.
Secondly, a simple life means that, if anything, life is less chaotic. Walking to work each morning for 25 minutes is much less stressful than negotiating traffic. No TV and a simple radio (with Radio National 24/7) frees up hours each evening and provides quality news and discussion each morning. Relationally-focussed people care more about you than what you can do. A strong Australian volunteer community based within 15 minutes of each other is a vibrant link to a familiar social, sporting and cultural network. While we may lack the luxuries of hot showers, fresh milk and a quiet neighbourhood, these are only small inconveniences. Daily life is simple, but good.
There are, in fact, other luxuries that can be appreciated more fully. Cultural activities like Independence Day celebrations, fire knife twirling and canoe racing haven’t yet lost their novel appeal. The outdoor/beach lifestyle enjoyed by many Australians is still very much a feature of life in Samoa, however the heat limits this mostly to the mornings and evenings. The serenity of weekend trips to beachfront fales… only 40 minutes drive away.
I recently acted as tour guide for my parents and uncle and aunty who were looking for a relaxing Pacific Island retreat. Armed with a hire car, some small gifts and a bit of local knowledge we explored the two main islands of Upolu and Savaii, as well as the road-less and dog-less (!) island of Manono. Memorable moments often involved the generous welcome of local villagers and the excited faces of kids being presented with a tennis ball. One particular moment stood out… relaxing on a balcony over the water, watching the sunset while local kids played rugby in the shallow water beneath. Priceless.
So life in Samoa is pretty good – better than I thought for a volunteer. Some aspects of work can be frustrating... I recently introduced a competition to motivate the casual staff to be more productive while in the office. With beers on the line, it’s amazing how efficient they can be! I hope that my task-oriented approach won’t rid them entirely of their contented and care-free attitude. Maybe there’s something we can both learn.
Cycling Trip around Savaii
On the Mother’s Day long weekend (Friday 9th – Monday 12th May), a group of ten people, mostly Aussie volunteers, travelled with our bikes to Savaii, the largest of the Samoan islands. What a wonderful weekend we had! We spent three days cycling around this strikingly volcanic place, still bearing the remnants of three volcanic eruptions at the turn of last century.
1. Preparations 
It started (and ended) slowly. Getting hold of a bike was a mission in itself. They aren’t readily available to hire because Samoans are notorious for bringing them back in pieces. Fortunately, I made a very good contact – an Aussie named Steve who married a Samoan and has lived here for twenty years. His bike repairer had an old, old bike I could borrow… for a reasonable price: 50 tala (AUD$22) I was told. When I met him though, the price had gone up… to 400 tala ($AUD176)! For 4 days hire, this was ridiculous. “200 tala”, he suggested as a compromise, but I refused. “100?” I wouldn’t budge. I was ready to walk away until he reluctantly agreed to 50. He had been determined to rip-off a palagi (I assume to buy an expensive Mother’s Day gift!), but he couldn’t get his way. I felt a little bit sorry for him, but only for a moment or two.
The plan was to arrive by ferry on the Friday night, sleep the first night, before beginning three days of cycling until Monday evening, where we would catch another ferry back to the main island of Upolu. The first (Saturday) and third (Mondays) days were approximately 50km long, while the second day (Sunday) was 80-100km long, depending on whether you took the shortcut or not. I was determined not to take any shortcuts, particularly since Steve had assured us that it was one of the most beautiful spots on the island. Our accommodation had been booked ahead at various coastal fales: they proved to be absolutely beautiful.
2. Day One The first place we stayed at in Saleleloga had been wonderfully integrated into the coastal, rainforest environment. The fales were scattered along the coastline and dotted within the virgin forest, with tracks weaving their way past angular tree trunks and under wooden overpasses. The jetty jutted out 3 or 4 metres above beautifully still water among a series of little coves which were lined with overhanging greenery. The tropical warm water was interspersed with desperately cold patches where freshwater springs containing the cool mountain water burst to the surface. The food and the staff were wonderful, particularly when they agreed to have breakfast ready for us at 5:30am before our dawn set-off.
The highlights of day one were swimming in the still freshwater pool of Olemoe Falls (which were fed not from the waterfall, but from underground springs), and Alofaaga Blowholes, the (self-proclaimed) best blowholes in the Pacific, if not the world. Even though the sea was calm when we visited, the wave power against this rugged, volcanic coastline was still awe-inspiring. I’d heard of instances where people had been killed by getting too close to these, at times, unpredictable forces of nature. However, I was a little more concerned with the local Samoan lady who told me how she was not yet married, that she loved me, and that the gift of a drinking coconut was proof of her love. Had we not identified a massive hole in my rear tyre, we would have left much sooner!
3. Day TwoThe second night was equally picturesque. Our accommodation was located beneath two towering trees and fronted a long white-sand beach. The lady who ran the place enlisted the help of her granddaughter and grandson, who were surprisingly capable and mature hosts. Those of our group who had set off ahead had spent the afternoon chilled out in the dining fale, while others (including myself) had taken our time to explore other places along the journey. This was to be a consistent pattern for Steve and I, one which would make for a very long Day Two...
I had said that I was determined not to take any shortcuts, but on the second morning I was already very sore. It wasn’t looking good. Fortunately, Steve had packed some foam for the bike seat, but this only reduced the pain slightly. Not long into the ride, I began chatting with a local kid who was also on a bike, and he invited me to his family home. I accepted his offer, and was soon sitting cross-legged with his parents eating egg sandwiches and drinking kokosamoa (a hot chocolate drink). Fortunately, the only two people trailing me, Steve and Saju (also the only non-volunteers in our group), saw me and decided to join our little gathering. We ended up being given a whole 2-litre bottle of kokosamoa, which was a tremendous source of energy for our trip. The drink stayed warm because of the heat, which was quite intense between the hours of 10am – 4pm.
The three of us took almost every detour we could find – our first shortcut saw us trudging along a sandy road at the local village church’s instruction. After a painfully slow walk up the steep hill out of that village, we enjoyed a fantastic downhill to the remote and idyllic world of Faleolupo. We spent two hours lazing amongst brilliant white sand, palm trees and fresh local food. This was also the final location on the planet to see the end of the previous millennium, a celebration that far exceeded the modest expectations of Samoa’s tourism authorities. We could have spent the whole day there, but after swimming and eating, we knew we had to move on.
The next major highlight was the slightly more developed town of Vaisala, whose hotel balcony overlooked an aqua-blue beach perfect for lazing about and paddling. The three of us enjoyed some well-earned cold drinks and valuable shade. Unfortunately, Saju’s knee was playing up, and since it was already 3pm with a further 2-3 hours of cycling to go, he decided to be picked up by our support vehicle. After a quick swim, Steve and I continued to cycle/walk in what was the largest incline and hottest section of the ride.
Despite our rapidly reducing hours of daylight, we still managed two stops to chat to some more of Steve’s mates. We even enjoyed Sa with a local family: fifteen minutes of family time in the evening devoted to singing, prayer and reflection. By the time we made it to Manase, our third stop, we’d been riding for half an hour in the dark, dodging pedestrians out for their evening stroll. We had time enough to grab a drink and a meal and have a chat to a few Antipodean medical students on placement, before collapsing for a well-earned rest.
4. Day Three 
The final day was comparably relaxed – a flat, coastal ride in wet conditions through more lava flow territory. The lagoon on our left would have appeared more beautiful on a clear day: a good reason to come back another time. The highlights were visiting a village built on the rim of a volcanic crater, and stroking a turtle tethered at one of the coastal fales (after telling them they shouldn’t be catching these vulnerable turtles for the sake of the tourists)! We returned to Salaleloga in time for the 12 o’clock ferry, but first managed a quick bite to eat at the place we stayed on Friday night. Once all the people and cars were squeezed onto the ferry, we set-off and I soon headed for the comfort of the passenger seat of Ben’s support vehicle. Within minutes, I was asleep.
It had been a draining few days, but tremendously rewarding. We had seen some stunning scenery, met some very generous and hospitable people, and developed strong bonds with the other survivors of ‘Cycle Savaii’. Even in such a tired state, part of me still longed to go back again. A month or so later, the desire is still there. There may well be a sequel…
