Birthdays and Other End-of-Year Celebrations

Late in November, I celebrated my 29th birthday alongside my German and French mates Christof and Arnauld. Held at Christof’s Colonial mansion, a beautiful white colonial-style house up the hill from Apia, we hosted a diverse mix of Antipodeans, Europeans, and Samoans. We managed to source a karaoke machine and coupled with a ‘karaoke stars’ dress-up theme, we saw some stirring performances. Most noticeable were Christof and Arnauld’s shameless cross-dressing, our Bee Gees version of “Stayin’ Alive” and an a capella version of “Wannabe” by the Spice Girls.

Consistent with the general news that leaks out from the Samoan Australian volunteer community, December has seen a surge in social activities. Adding to the usual social events, there are the many and varied work Christmas parties. These events are usually better prepared than every other work-related function. The Samoans seem to take particular pride in ensuring a super-indulgent feast for these occasions. I recently attended the meticulously scripted Australian High Commission Christmas Party, and Heather and I managed to win the prizes for the Best Karaoke Duo and the Best Dancing Couple. She can definitely take most of the credit for the dancing award…

For Christmas, many of us headed to one of our favourite beaches, Vavau, on the south of the island. We had an informal Church Service there on Christmas morning, which feature a Samoanised Nativity Skit. In between Christmas and the New Year, a group of 16 travelled around the island of Savaii over 3-4 days, half of us by bike. It’s something I did earlier in the year, but was such a highlight that we tried it again. This time though, we cycled the other way around the island. Memorable moments included an amazingly beautiful secluded black-sand beach, being treated to a Samoan feast of coconut crabs and relaxing in our favourite deep freshwater pool and waterfall.

For New Years Eve, we camped for free under a make-shift marquee at one of the nicest resorts in Samoa. It was a comparatively relaxed event, with plenty of chillout time in the hammocks and the beachside saltwater pool.

As the end of the year draws near, my thoughts have turned to future plans. So, I have now decided to stay in Samoa a little longer, working in the same position as I’m currently in. There isn’t yet concrete confirmation, but it’s likely I’ll be working as a VIDA volunteer for at least another year. The water industry here is moving in the right direction and I feel able to assist in that process. The work is satisfying and my colleagues are mostly young and keen. The lifestyle here is wonderful and the work-life balance is very manageable. My relationship with Heather is growing brilliantly, and I look forward to the masses of quality-time that this environment allows.

On a slightly more sombre note, quite a number of volunteers have recently left or will soon be leaving. I suppose this is the nature of volunteering. Many foreigners only stay for short-term assignments. I’ll have to get used to the process of forming new relationships and farewelling other friends. My intake have been a tremendous group of people with enthusiasm, a wide array of talents and high ideals. It’ll be sad to see many of them go in the coming months…

A Couple of Twists and Turns

The last two months have taken a couple of twists and turns, for the better and for the worse…but mostly towards the better. Firstly, this period of time has been dominated by illnesses and injuries:
- I was hospitalised for a viral infection that hit me very hard for 24 hours and then decided suddenly that it’d had enough excitement for one person (my compassionate housemates found my curled-up fingers to be quite amusing);
- I gashed my foot while swimming in a crater lake. Four weeks later and this is still in the process of healing;
- A dry cough has been a companion of mine for three months now, and not even two courses of antibiotics and regular lime and garlic drinks can shake it;
- Stomach knots, lack of appetite and regular toilet visits have interspersed the latest week, which given my previous incidents, has been a relatively minor inconvenience.
Nevertheless, my spirits are still high, and I look forward to soon developing a resistance to all forms of tropical disease and pestilence.

The second turn has come from an unexpected source, in the form of an Australian diplomat. No, I haven’t been requested to leave the country or invited to be ASIO’s Samoan informant (though naturally I couldn’t tell you even if I was), but I could well be detained in Samoa slightly longer than originally planned. Her name is Heather and she’s been posted to Samoa with AusAid for 2-3 years. For the last two months, we’ve been engaged in more personal diplomatic relations, though it’s yet to be confirmed whether this is linked in any way to my sickness. Her dengue fever and tonsillitis are considered unrelated. I can reveal that the current status is considered to be very positive and the accompanying photo is attached. In order to preserve Australia’s close ties with Samoa however, further comment is withheld at this present time.

One other happening worth mentioning is the trip of my good friend Tim Harris. We spent almost two weeks exploring four of the Samoan islands; relaxing, snorkelling, chatting to both tourists and locals, hanging out with the Australian volunteer community and (as is our custom) tasting the iced chocolate. Some of the highlights included playing touch footy and cricket on the beach with a couple of local kids, an incredibly welcoming meal from a family in Savaii, hermit crabs on Namua Island, interesting chats with tourists on our first few days and a walk/swim at an upland crater lake. It was also a wonderful opportunity to relax and reflect on the last 6 months or so with a close mate. Great memories!

The Simple Life as a Volunteer

Volunteering in a ‘developing’ country is meant to be hard, isn’t it? …Living in basic conditions, overwhelmed by needy people, cultural isolation and chaotic schedules, jumping from one disaster to the next. Five months down the track and this hasn’t defined my experience.

Firstly, Samoa could hardly be classed as ‘developing’. There are very few people who struggle for food and have nowhere to sleep. Fruit and vegetables grow almost anywhere and more than 80% of the land is customary-owned (family inheritance). The informal social security networks practiced for decades are very effective. Family networks only rarely allow one of their own to be outcast. I’ve witnessed much more obvious signs of poverty in Sydney.

Secondly, a simple life means that, if anything, life is less chaotic. Walking to work each morning for 25 minutes is much less stressful than negotiating traffic. No TV and a simple radio (with Radio National 24/7) frees up hours each evening and provides quality news and discussion each morning. Relationally-focussed people care more about you than what you can do. A strong Australian volunteer community based within 15 minutes of each other is a vibrant link to a familiar social, sporting and cultural network. While we may lack the luxuries of hot showers, fresh milk and a quiet neighbourhood, these are only small inconveniences. Daily life is simple, but good.

There are, in fact, other luxuries that can be appreciated more fully. Cultural activities like Independence Day celebrations, fire knife twirling and canoe racing haven’t yet lost their novel appeal. The outdoor/beach lifestyle enjoyed by many Australians is still very much a feature of life in Samoa, however the heat limits this mostly to the mornings and evenings. The serenity of weekend trips to beachfront fales… only 40 minutes drive away.

I recently acted as tour guide for my parents and uncle and aunty who were looking for a relaxing Pacific Island retreat. Armed with a hire car, some small gifts and a bit of local knowledge we explored the two main islands of Upolu and Savaii, as well as the road-less and dog-less (!) island of Manono. Memorable moments often involved the generous welcome of local villagers and the excited faces of kids being presented with a tennis ball. One particular moment stood out… relaxing on a balcony over the water, watching the sunset while local kids played rugby in the shallow water beneath. Priceless.

So life in Samoa is pretty good – better than I thought for a volunteer. Some aspects of work can be frustrating... I recently introduced a competition to motivate the casual staff to be more productive while in the office. With beers on the line, it’s amazing how efficient they can be! I hope that my task-oriented approach won’t rid them entirely of their contented and care-free attitude. Maybe there’s something we can both learn.

Cycling Trip around Savaii

On the Mother’s Day long weekend (Friday 9th – Monday 12th May), a group of ten people, mostly Aussie volunteers, travelled with our bikes to Savaii, the largest of the Samoan islands. What a wonderful weekend we had! We spent three days cycling around this strikingly volcanic place, still bearing the remnants of three volcanic eruptions at the turn of last century.

1. Preparations
It started (and ended) slowly. Getting hold of a bike was a mission in itself. They aren’t readily available to hire because Samoans are notorious for bringing them back in pieces. Fortunately, I made a very good contact – an Aussie named Steve who married a Samoan and has lived here for twenty years. His bike repairer had an old, old bike I could borrow… for a reasonable price: 50 tala (AUD$22) I was told. When I met him though, the price had gone up… to 400 tala ($AUD176)! For 4 days hire, this was ridiculous. “200 tala”, he suggested as a compromise, but I refused. “100?” I wouldn’t budge. I was ready to walk away until he reluctantly agreed to 50. He had been determined to rip-off a palagi (I assume to buy an expensive Mother’s Day gift!), but he couldn’t get his way. I felt a little bit sorry for him, but only for a moment or two.

The plan was to arrive by ferry on the Friday night, sleep the first night, before beginning three days of cycling until Monday evening, where we would catch another ferry back to the main island of Upolu. The first (Saturday) and third (Mondays) days were approximately 50km long, while the second day (Sunday) was 80-100km long, depending on whether you took the shortcut or not. I was determined not to take any shortcuts, particularly since Steve had assured us that it was one of the most beautiful spots on the island. Our accommodation had been booked ahead at various coastal fales: they proved to be absolutely beautiful.

2. Day One

The first place we stayed at in Saleleloga had been wonderfully integrated into the coastal, rainforest environment. The fales were scattered along the coastline and dotted within the virgin forest, with tracks weaving their way past angular tree trunks and under wooden overpasses. The jetty jutted out 3 or 4 metres above beautifully still water among a series of little coves which were lined with overhanging greenery. The tropical warm water was interspersed with desperately cold patches where freshwater springs containing the cool mountain water burst to the surface. The food and the staff were wonderful, particularly when they agreed to have breakfast ready for us at 5:30am before our dawn set-off.

The highlights of day one were swimming in the still freshwater pool of Olemoe Falls (which were fed not from the waterfall, but from underground springs), and Alofaaga Blowholes, the (self-proclaimed) best blowholes in the Pacific, if not the world. Even though the sea was calm when we visited, the wave power against this rugged, volcanic coastline was still awe-inspiring. I’d heard of instances where people had been killed by getting too close to these, at times, unpredictable forces of nature. However, I was a little more concerned with the local Samoan lady who told me how she was not yet married, that she loved me, and that the gift of a drinking coconut was proof of her love. Had we not identified a massive hole in my rear tyre, we would have left much sooner!

3. Day Two
The second night was equally picturesque. Our accommodation was located beneath two towering trees and fronted a long white-sand beach. The lady who ran the place enlisted the help of her granddaughter and grandson, who were surprisingly capable and mature hosts. Those of our group who had set off ahead had spent the afternoon chilled out in the dining fale, while others (including myself) had taken our time to explore other places along the journey. This was to be a consistent pattern for Steve and I, one which would make for a very long Day Two...

I had said that I was determined not to take any shortcuts, but on the second morning I was already very sore. It wasn’t looking good. Fortunately, Steve had packed some foam for the bike seat, but this only reduced the pain slightly. Not long into the ride, I began chatting with a local kid who was also on a bike, and he invited me to his family home. I accepted his offer, and was soon sitting cross-legged with his parents eating egg sandwiches and drinking kokosamoa (a hot chocolate drink). Fortunately, the only two people trailing me, Steve and Saju (also the only non-volunteers in our group), saw me and decided to join our little gathering. We ended up being given a whole 2-litre bottle of kokosamoa, which was a tremendous source of energy for our trip. The drink stayed warm because of the heat, which was quite intense between the hours of 10am – 4pm.

The three of us took almost every detour we could find – our first shortcut saw us trudging along a sandy road at the local village church’s instruction. After a painfully slow walk up the steep hill out of that village, we enjoyed a fantastic downhill to the remote and idyllic world of Faleolupo. We spent two hours lazing amongst brilliant white sand, palm trees and fresh local food. This was also the final location on the planet to see the end of the previous millennium, a celebration that far exceeded the modest expectations of Samoa’s tourism authorities. We could have spent the whole day there, but after swimming and eating, we knew we had to move on.

The next major highlight was the slightly more developed town of Vaisala, whose hotel balcony overlooked an aqua-blue beach perfect for lazing about and paddling. The three of us enjoyed some well-earned cold drinks and valuable shade. Unfortunately, Saju’s knee was playing up, and since it was already 3pm with a further 2-3 hours of cycling to go, he decided to be picked up by our support vehicle. After a quick swim, Steve and I continued to cycle/walk in what was the largest incline and hottest section of the ride.

Despite our rapidly reducing hours of daylight, we still managed two stops to chat to some more of Steve’s mates. We even enjoyed Sa with a local family: fifteen minutes of family time in the evening devoted to singing, prayer and reflection. By the time we made it to Manase, our third stop, we’d been riding for half an hour in the dark, dodging pedestrians out for their evening stroll. We had time enough to grab a drink and a meal and have a chat to a few Antipodean medical students on placement, before collapsing for a well-earned rest.

4. Day Three
The final day was comparably relaxed – a flat, coastal ride in wet conditions through more lava flow territory. The lagoon on our left would have appeared more beautiful on a clear day: a good reason to come back another time. The highlights were visiting a village built on the rim of a volcanic crater, and stroking a turtle tethered at one of the coastal fales (after telling them they shouldn’t be catching these vulnerable turtles for the sake of the tourists)! We returned to Salaleloga in time for the 12 o’clock ferry, but first managed a quick bite to eat at the place we stayed on Friday night. Once all the people and cars were squeezed onto the ferry, we set-off and I soon headed for the comfort of the passenger seat of Ben’s support vehicle. Within minutes, I was asleep.

It had been a draining few days, but tremendously rewarding. We had seen some stunning scenery, met some very generous and hospitable people, and developed strong bonds with the other survivors of ‘Cycle Savaii’. Even in such a tired state, part of me still longed to go back again. A month or so later, the desire is still there. There may well be a sequel…

Work Perspectives
Finally, I’ve got around to writing another blog post, having just finished my correspondence course subject on the “Theology of Mission” (quite appropriate given Samoa’s missionary history). In this instalment, I’ll be discussing my initial impressions of work...

1. My Role
The main reason why I’m in Samoa is to work as a Hydrology Engineer. Two years ago, the Samoan Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment (MNRE) established a Water Resources Division (WRD) to manage all of Samoa’s water resources. Their primary roles are to:
(1) monitor and assess the key surface and ground water sources;
(2) improve protected catchments and water quality through education and catchment management techniques; and
(3) formulate and enforce water-related policy and legislation.
I’ve been drafted in mainly to help with role (1), but also to build up the Division in general. It’s a pretty good deal for them: they get me for free, and can do with me what they like… within reason. In reality, I’m already working harder than most of the staff would feel comfortable with, and this is the most chilled-out I’ve been since I graduated. Keep in mind that this is a Government department in a Pacific Island – I never anticipated a particularly stressed out work environment!

2. Impressions
Having said that, compared to many other workplaces in Samoa, they’re a pretty keen and positive group. I’ve joined the team at a time when their day-to-day roles are now quite well defined, but there is still a lot of scope to try new things and develop in different directions. Any bad habits haven’t yet been deeply ingrained and they expect that I will be providing additional guidance and training.

Yet I am not the only one involved in this process. They seem to have a massive number of outside consultants involved in short-term activities. For half of my first two months, we were accompanied by international experts who provided specialised training. While this short-term training is usually very good, there may not be enough attention given to putting it into practice, meaning that much of the benefit is lost.

One of my most important roles is to ensure that the training isn’t wasted, and that any recommendations are implemented before the next “mission”. I’m also making sure that their flow and rainfall measurements are accurate, stored properly and backed up, which has been a problem in the past. I recently completed the first draft of a Data Management Manual, which details the processes that should be followed to ensure data integrity. It’s such a fundamental task, because everything else in the WRD depends on it.


3. Lightbulb Moment
Last week, I was involved in a “lightbulb moment”. A colleague was trying to understand groundwater and had only become more confused after speaking to the hydro-geology specialist from Holland. She had also just spoken to a Samoan expert and was really enthusiastic after learning from his experience, but still a little uncertain. When she spoke to me about how she understood a borehole to work, it became clear that she thought that Samoa was literally a floating island. I explained that we were standing on soil and rock, and that water was only found in the gaps between the particles. Suddenly the penny dropped and all this background learning became clear. It was really satisfying to be part of an epiphany moment like that. Hopefully there'll be more of those moments to come...

First weeks...

After a flight cancellation and a 3 hour delay, the twelve of us AYADs arrived at Apia Airport in Samoa… a sleep-deprived day and half late.

Orientation
We were soon whisked off to a town centre hotel and then out to the tropical paradise of Lalomanu; supposedly one of the best ways to be eased into the Samoan way-of-life. Lalomanu is a popular beachside retreat boasting pristine white beaches, overhanging palm trees, some of the best snorkelling on the island and traditional Samoan fales (huts with no walls) lining the shore. If you’re imagining Pacific Island tourist brochures right now, you’re on the right track.

We met some of the AYADs from the previous intake between snorkeling, throwing balls and frisbees, eating food, playing beach cricket, chilling out and chatting. We were treated to some energetic Samoan dancing on the Saturday evening. I could hardly believe how they managed to keep such natural smiles on their faces while exerting so much energy. I couldn’t help but smile myself. ;)

Week One: House + Easter
Unlike the Samoan dancers, our first week was very chilled out, but this is Fa’a Samoa – the Samoan way. The greatest achievement is that I’ve found a place to stay… It’s a two storey, wood-paneled house on the main road to the east of Apia, opposite a sports complex and only 25 minutes walk to the town centre. I’m sharing with two ladies and another guy, all Australian volunteers. They’re great fun to live with and they love to cook! Since Samoa is warm and humid, the house has open slatted windows on all sides, covered with the all-important fly screens. It’s great for encouraging the cool breeze, but terrible for sound-proofing. The backyard is shared with two other households (Samoan properties don’t have many fences, though the Australian High Commission is a notable exception!), and we are treated to the at-times comedic antics of a host of farmyard animals. This is great fun during the day, especially when the dogs start chasing the pigs around the house. At nightfall though, the ‘zombie dog’ packs take over (bring a rock if walking at night!). By 5:00am, it’s the roosters that decide to announce themselves. Fortunately the subwoofer-enhanced buses don’t start until 6:00am, though some of the utes are just as loud. Let’s just say that it’s tough to get an uninterrupted night’s sleep.

The first week climaxed at Easter, which is a pretty big deal in Samoa. I attended Apia Protestant Church; the closest English-speaking Protestant Church to my house. On Good Friday morning, I read all the gospel accounts of Jesus’ final days, and was struck by the blatant injustice of his trial before the Jewish leaders. I walked into church and heard beautiful Samoan voices singing of Jesus’ greatness in the song “Above All”: the contrast was particularly impacting. Since attending this church over the last few weeks, I have regularly been inspired by their music and drama, as well as the fire-in-the-belly preaching of the minister.

Week Two: Language Classes
Our second week was defined by language classes. The highlight was attending a traditional kava ceremony at the National University of Samoa, where honoured guests (in this case, from Otago University) were welcomed with words of great Samoan oratory. One of our language teachers was the leading speaker, and she relayed to us palagis (foreigners) how she, with good humour, had to silence the responding speaker due to a technicality in her Samoan chiefly status. I’m learning that hierarchy is a visible and important part of the Samoan social structure.

To summarise other notable tidbits of my experience so far, us volunteers have learnt how to prepare coconut cream, to cook fresh seafood in an umu (slow-cooking underground oven) and to slide down waterfalls on our hands and feet. To burn off the excess of sugary, fatty foods, I’ve been either running, paddling, playing touch or ultimate frisbee every day other than Sundays, which is a day for church and Sa (prayerful rest).

Week Three: Work
I’ve just finished my first week at work at the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment (MNRE). In my next blogpost, I’ll reflect with more detail on this… suffice to say, my skills will be well suited to this role.


First Impressions
Defining first impressions of Samoa? Family, church, rugby, smiles, party buses, coconuts, ‘zombie dogs’, palm trees, pigs, roosters, heavy rain, voluminous clouds, rainforest, steep mountains, crowded ute trays, iafataga (skirt)-wearing bicycle-riding police, “It’s too late to apologise”, afternoon naps, super warm seawater, thongs, right-hand drive debate, sun, taxis, singing, Vailima (locally-brewed) beer, foreign aid, malo (hi)!

Great Expectations for Samoa

In less than 30 hours I will begin 12 months as an Australian Youth Ambassador for Development (AYAD) in Apia, the capital of Samoa. On Friday, March 14, I'll be flying out to work as a hydrology engineer in the Water Resources division of the Ministry of Natural Resources, Environment and Meteorology.

To begin the Samoan version of my blog/journal, I though it'd be best to start with some expectations for the coming year. Then, when I finish my final post, I'll compare these expectations with what actually eventuated 12 months down the track.

So... will it be an extended summer holiday in a Pacific Island paradise or a hellish ride of misplaced hopes and derailed plans??

Hopefully neither. I wouldn't be satisfied with either a self-indulgent life of luxury or a mistake-ridden car crash in slow motion. My expectations for life in Samoa are...

1. Personal challenge. Having being forced to be a decision-maker while adapting to life in Scotland in recent years, I imagine that Fa'a Samoa ("the Samoan way") will have its own set of unique personal challenges. The things I'm most likely to find difficult are:

(i) the slower pace of life;

(ii) cultural Christianity (especially any unrepentant hypocrisy);

(iii) the humidity;

(iv) learning the language;

(v) balancing work, study, relationships (in Samoa & overseas), church, sport and relaxation.

2. Work goals. To be honest, I have very modest expectations about what can be achieved in 12 months. I imagine this to be the best I could hope for:

(i) improved coverage of flow gauges in rivers near major towns/villages;

(ii) slightly better trained young employees in yield assessment and water resource monitoring;

(iii) improved staff capacity, in quality and/or quantity;

(iv) greater protection of water catchment areas through public awareness.

3. Relationships

I have increasingly realised the importance of a strong network of relationships, and this will be particularly evident in Samoa. I hope to:

(i) develop the respect and trust of locals in all the social circles within which I am engaged;

(ii) minimise the cultural barriers to communication while being strong in my own identity;

(iii) prioritise key friendships in Samoa, without neglecting important relationships overseas.

4. Spiritual. Faith in God is on the agenda in Samoa, and I hope my own journey will be challenged and strengthened by being immersed in this culture. Specifically:

(i) compare what is being spoken and practised by Samoan Christians to my own expectations/ traditions and enable that to transform my expression of faith;

(ii) understand God's heart in the Samoan context and speaking out boldly but gently;

(iii) be engaged in positive social action, especially within the activity of the churches.

Since 2001, I have been hoping to work in a developing world context. This Samoan experience will have a large bearing on whether to continue on this trajectory. Hopefully there will be growing clarity on whether this is a path best suited to my skills, desires and priorities. Through the process of journalling, these factors may very well be revealed...